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I have spent some wonderful days in Lisbon. Last night, I went back to Praça do Comércio, the amazing square where the Royal Palace was, right next to the water. I walked around after a warm October day and had dinner at the Chefe Cordeiro restaurant, right under the arches, almost touching the Tagus river and Atlantic infinity.

I tried two very good wines with an assortment of Portuguese chouriços and a rice with lobster cooked with somewhat hot spices. The first wine was Marques dos Vales 2011, from Algarve, a “blanc de noir” (a white which should be red), made with Castelao grapes. Even if the name is a fake one (there is no such nobility title), it is one of the most transparent and delicate wines I have ever tasted. I have been told it sells at less than 10 euros. It reminded me of apples and had a long finish, like Portugal’s never ending conversation with its past. The second wine was a red-red, called Quinta do Gradil 2010, made with cabernet sauvingnon and tinta roriz grapes near Lisbon. It is a very elegant wine, that went very well with the imperial majesty of the square, painted in royal yellow.